Extract from the journal of Captain James Cook
Extract from the journal of Captain James Cook compiled during
the voyage of the Endeavour up the eastern coast of Australia in 1770.
Friday May 25th
(Days were apparently from Noon til Noon – Ed.) In the PM
had it calm until 5 o’clock when a light breeze sprung up at SE and we steer’d
NW as the land lay until 10 o’clock, then brought too having had along 14 and
15 fathom water. At 5 in the AM we made sail, at day light the northernmost
point of the main bore N70º West and soon after we saw more land making like
islands bearing NWBN. At 9 o’clock we were abreast of the point distant from
it 1 Mile, depth of water 14 fathom. I found this point to lay directly under
the Tropick of Capricorn and for that reason call’d it by that Name. Longde
209ºO’ West.
It is of moderate height and looks white and barren and may be
known by some Islands which layes to the NW of it and some small rocks one
League SE from it. On the west side of the Cape there appear’d to be a Lagoon
of the two spits which form’d the entrance where a great number of Pelicans at
least I so call them. The most northernmost land we could see bore from C.
Capricorn N24º West and appear’d to an Island, but the Main land trended
WBN1/2N which Course we steer’d having from 15 to 6 fathom and from 6 to 9 a
hard sandy bottom. At noon our Latitude by observation was 23º24’S. C.
Capricorn bore S60º east distant 2 Leagues, a small Island NBE 2 Miles. In this
situation had 9 fm water at the distance of 4 Miles from the Main land, which is
here low and Sandy next the Sea, except the points which are moderately high and
rocky; in land the Country is hilly and affords but a very indifferent prospect.
Saturday May 26th
In the PM had a light breeze at ESE with which we stood to the
NW until 4 oclock when it fell Cam and soon after we Anchor’d in 12 fathom
water, Cape Capricorn bearing S54º East distant 4 Leagues, having the Main land
and Islands in a manner all around us.
In the night we found the tide to rise and fall near 7 feet
and the flood to set to the westward and Ebb to the Eastward, which is the very
reverse to what we found when at Anchor to the Eastward of Bustard Bay. At 6 in
the AM we weigh’d with the wind at South a gentle breeze and stood away to the
NW between the outermost raing(e) of Islands and the Main land, leaving several
small Island(s) between us and the latter, which we passed close by. Our
soundings was a little erregular from 12 to 4 fathom which caused me to send a
boat a head to sound. At noon we were about 3 Miles from the Main about the same
distance from the Islands without us, out Latitude by obsn was 23º7’S and
Longitude made from Cape Capricorn 18 miles west. The Main land in this Latitude
is tolerable high and Mountainous and the Island which lay off it are the most
of them pretty high and of a small circuit and have more the appearance of
barrenness than fertility.
We saw smooks a good way inland which makes me think that
there must be a River Lagoon or Inlet into the Country and we pass’d two
places that had the appearance of such this morning, but our depth of water at
that time was too little to haul in for them where I might expect to meet with
less.
Sunday May 27th
We had not stood in to the northward quite an hour before we
fell into 3 fathom water, upon which I Anchor’d and sent away the master with
two boats to sound the Channell which lay to the leeward of us between the
Northermost Island and the Main land, which appear’d to me to be pretty broad;
but I suspected that it was shoal and so it was found, for the Master reported
to me upon his return that he found in many places only 21/2 fathoms, and where
we lay at Anchor we had only 16 feet which was not 2 feet more than the Ship
draw’d. In the evening the wind Veer’d to ENE which gave us an opportunity
to stretch 3 or 4 Miles back the way we came before the wind shifted to South
and oblige’d us again to anchor in 6 fathom. At 5 o’clock in the AM I sent
away the Master with two boats to search for a passage out between the Islands
while we got the Ship under sail. As soon as it was light the Signal was made by
the boats of their having found a passage upon which we follow’d with the
Ship. After we got out and into deep water we hoisted in the boats and made Sail
to the Northward as the land lay, soundings from 9 to 15 fathom, having still
some small Islands without us. At Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Main
land and by observation in the latitude of 22º53’S, Longitude made from Cape
Capricorn 20 miles west. At this the northernmost point of land we had in sight
bore NNW distant 10 Miles, this point I name C. Manyfold from the number of high
hills over it. Latitude 22º43’S, It lies N26º West distant 17 1/3 Leagues
from C. Capricorn, between them the shore forms a large bay which I call’d
Keppel Bay and the Islands which lay in and off it are known by the same name.
In this Bay is good anchorage where there is a sufficient depth of water. What
refreshments it may afford for shipping I know not, we caught no fish here not
withstanding we were at anchor. It can hardly be doubted but what it affords
fresh water in several place(s) as both main land and Islands are inhabited; we
saw smooks by day and fires in the night upon the Main and people upon one of
the Islands.
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